Sunday, November 23, 2008

A bit of India












I imagine that your thoughts of my experience in India are similar to what my thoughts where a matter of weeks ago. INDIA- fear, anxiety, loneliness, filthy, dangerous, busy, strange, and struggle to name a few words that initially came to my mind when anticipating this adventure.

On the contrary, I am living a very comfortable life. I walk out of my room and down the stairs to write this on a high speed computer, waiting for a smoothie (made of curd, banana, and chocolate) to be delivered. Tonight is the first night that I am washing my clothes. Although many people here have to wash their clothes in a bucket with soap, Anu and Ganesh have a washing machine (and a woman who is in charge of it.) I put my clothes in a bag outside my room and they are clean in the morning. Others also have to use a bucket to wash, but I am living the lux and have a shower at my disposal.

Today, I woke up before the sun, an hour before my 6 a.m. led practice (classes are led Friday and Sunday.) The lights were still out, temporary black outs occur about twice a day here. Usually early morning and between 7-9 p.m.
After practice, I skipped the coconut stand and walked across the street from the shala for breakfast. A few friends happened to be there too, so I had great company as I enjoyed a bowl of fresh tropical fruits, a delicious warm dosa (wheatless pancake) and a bold cup of coffee- all totalled $3.
After breakfast I returned to the shala for my month long Sutra class. Ashtanga Yoga, being much more than merely a series of poses, is a sacred science of life. The Sutras is a practical handbook (written two thousand years ago after being handed down orally for thousands of years prior.) The book educates the readers on how to elevate ourselves, broaden our attitudes, reduce our selfishness, and make us masters over our own body, senses, and mind. This book is pretty much rocking my philosophical world right now : )
After Sutras class, a friend from the class and I walked to the supermarket, approximately one mile away.

Here is where I see a bit of India.
We walk in the street because there are only side walks on a few of the streets. The boulevard we walk parallel to is depressing; broken pavement littered by garbage. The grasses are short and patched with dirt, possibly because all the goats and cows that roam the streets. The pollution is noticeable and disturbing. There is so much exhaust coughing out of the back end of all the rickshaws and motorcycles that pass much too close to the pedestrians. Often, piles of leaves and garbage are burning as you walk down the street. Animal feces is in the street and male natives have no problem peeing in any field or on any wall around town.
Houses are all well guarded. Tall cement walls surround the cement homes, and a metal gate 6' high is the entrance. In the front of each domain I noticed a different hand drawn white chalk symbol. Upon asking I learned that the woman of each household must wake up before her husband in order to sweep out the front entry. (I have seen the broom that they use and I wonder what they would think if they saw what we use in the states .) Once she has swept and mopped the driveway, she draws this geometric symbol which I have been told means "welcome." I find this particularly odd since the women who must draw this each morning are less than welcoming with their gazes as I meet their eyes on the street. They are dressed in beautiful bright traditional saris, covering from their neck down. Long dark hair, rich brown skin, and a bindi in between every pair of dark eyes. They look beautiful and mysterious to me. The men wear anything from jeans and a t-shirt to a towel wrapped around their waist (I learned what this was called and forgot...)

The streets are lush with trees and behind the cement fences are gardens and potted plants, but through my eyes the trash and debris takes away all the beauty of nature. I enjoy walking around, but some days I swear I won't do it again. The harassment, the pollution, and the near misses by motorized vehicles is just too much sometimes. I return to my little safety net in Gokulam, the few blocks I have considered my neighborhood.

Most often I eat around the neighborhood, but there are a few lunch spots half a mile away or so that are fabulous! At first I went in to restaurants by myself and just asked what I should eat... I have never been so open to eating what ever is suggested to me. I wouldn't know a single word on the menu, but everything I have eaten thus far has been delightful! I was so worried about getting sick, but everyone here seems to know where westerners can eat. My new friend has taken me to restaurants I would have never walked into by myself! He has been here for five months so when we eat food he explains what everything is and how it is prepared. He is fantastic to have around : )
Water can be dangerous here. It must be filtered if it comes out of the facet and can't even be used to brush the teeth. My friend took me to a place for dinner that had water (from washing) on the plates and I swore I was doomed! That night was the first time I put 15 drops of grapefruit seed extract oil, a natural antibiotic, in my water. I drank this down with my nightly handful of pills- (malaria meds, pro biotic, multi-vitamin ect.) Overall this place is much safer than I ever could have dreamed. I don't doubt that I may get a little sick here, sanitation has a different definition, but I have a tough stomach and hopeful intentions of wellness!
Alright this is long enough, and now I am just rambling... I will write again.
Love you all, know that I am happy and well!

1 comment:

lex said...

you honestly paint the picture so well...i feel like i'm there with you! (soon...) Keep writing, it's the best part of my day!