Perito Moreno Glacier

You just have to see it.  I will try to show you through pictures and words, but it will truly be impossible to fully explain its awesome size and gigantic beauty.  So, a glacier (for those who are not totally in the know) is an extended mass of ice formed from snow falling and accumulating over many many years and moving very slowly through the mountains.  Glaciers carved the earth thousands of years ago and created dramatic rock formations (ie. the rocky mountains).  Most glaciers around the world are drastically decreasing in size because of the warming temperature of the earth.  We can find glaciers in almost all mountain ranges, but these glaciers are small and withering away.  The Perito Moreno Glacier is the gladiator of all glaciers.  One of the few stable (if not growing!) glaciers, this is the biggest block of ice in all of the world!  Weighing in a 97 square miles and 19 miles in length this block of ice and snow is the size of approximately 48,000 football fields. 

right?  huge!

This unmatchable glacier is a gorgeous blue hued block of ice with its surface of spires giving it a majestically look.  This beast seems to be alive... huge chunks of ice cracking with sounds similar to gun shots and then dropping into the Lagos Argentine with a canon ball splash.  Freezing water whirl pooling, bobbing up and down in show until the few moments pass and the water is calm again.  Then, the fallen icebergs just float away, independent of the form they once were, but eventually shall return in some way :)

We took the tour that brought us onto the ice.  Expensive, it was the only option which allows you to touch this giant!  We embark on the boat that drops us off on the shore net to the glacier, we meet our guide, and after a few lessons regarding the area he straps the oldest crampons I have ever seen on our feet.  ---To the ice!----
Just like the world, you forget (or can not grasp) the grandeur and expansiveness of this diamond when you are walking on it... but it sure was entertaining!

They walked us around like you would walk a toddler around the house, allowing the experience to be the the simple steps in a new environment.  Nothing about this "mini-trek" was exciting, dangerous, exhilarating, exhausting, or adventurous.  We just walked around some ice with crampons on, which was fine and fun!  We saw a few mini crevasse and holes but nothing of real mountaineering stature.  The last part of the tour was to an ice bar with the option to drink whiskey (The Famous Grousse brand!) on the rocks.  I hate that stuff, but "when in rome"!  We also walked through an ice cave, which was crazy!  This glacier won the award of the most amazing thing that I have ever seen.  After the tour we took the boat back and the went to the "balconies".  From over a half a mile away, you could finially see most of the glacier.  Even from this distance, the sounds of ice falling from the big mama were loud and amazing to watch.  I could watch it for hours!  I am sick of trying to describe this, for my words prove nothing, so here are some photos! :)

   pretty much my favorite part of the tour.

and a few words about El Chalten...

Golden pink clouds in a lavender sky could never get old, even if it is 6 degrees Celsius in these stunning morning hours!  El Calten- a town of 1,500 people hosts the trail heads for some fantastic hikes with impressive mountain and glacier views.  Two full days and 40+ kilometers later, we feel satisfied with the northern part of Parques Nacionales Los Glaciares.  The sun has put a rosy tint on our cheeks, the wind has dried our eyes and chapped our lips, the hikes have elevated our spirits, and the vistas have left us in awe.  It feels good to walk in the mountains again, to be swallowed by silence and reminded of how small we are in this large world. 
Autumn is very present in this environment; A nip in the air and fantastic foliage colors exhibit that our surroundings are in a state of change.  Its about to get real cold up in here...
The extensive landscape filled with golden and auburn leaves and flat yellow grasslands abruptly ends at a gigantic lake which buts up to the Fitz Roy Mountain Range.  The sky is all-embracing and compliments the yellow foreground.  I feel it vibrates with me so perfectly!  I am most happy with simplicity and space.

El Chalten :)

Patagonia!

My boarding pass has the number "1" written on it in blue sharpie marker.  It's not even really much of a boarding pass, it looks more like a luggage tag.  Lauren's has the number "2."  I assume these are our seat numbers until we enter the plane with the seven other passengers and they tell us to "sit anywhere we would like."  At this point I would like to sit in a different plane, with a different airline company, but that's not about to happen!  We have been dropped off by bus to the middle of the runway/taxiway to board our plane.  The man who checked us in a few hours earlier is now the pilot.
Just kidding, but he is seriously on the plane!  The flight from BsAs to Calafate Patagonia was $120 US.  This was the cheapest flight we could find and now I am beginning to remember that often- you get what you pay for.  Five stops, a plane switch, and a day "wasted" dipping in and out of the sky.  We have decided (or I have put my foot down) that we are going to roll back to BsAs in better style!  For an extra $75 US, we will fly back direct and in under four hours.  Did I mention that the second plane we took was a propeller plane that was too loud to hear oneself think.
But, now- WE ARE IN PATAGONIA!!!!

and I am so happy  :)
The landscape here is familiar , I don't feel as if I am so far away.  Seven thousand miles from home I feel closer than I have been in weeks.  Low sagebrush fights to grow in the rocky soil.  The large green brown buttes on the left are the doors to these wide open spaces.  Snow capped peaks on my right stack high above the beautiful lake that sits at the valley floor.  The clouds are low, or maybe the mountains are so high.  Barbed wire and wood fences parallel the well paved road which we travel from the sirport to our hostel.  A storm looks as if it could be coming in, but I know to just wait another 15 minutes and the whole weather system can change.  No structures for miles. no garbage, no noise.  I can feel the wind blowing my hair everywhere, pushing any weight of stress and worries off of my shoulders.  I can hear my own heart beat again, I remember to find thanks, seek gratitude for all that I have.  The world feels right again and I can't stop smiling.

El Calafate  in the south west province of Santa Cruz in Argenina Patagonia:
A fast- growing tourist town (city, I guess?) is the gateway to a few main attractions in Patagonia.  Three big hits on our list of things to do:
1. El Chaltens extraordinary snow-capped towers of the Fitz Roy Range
2. The 19 mile long Perito Moreno Glacier in the Parque National Glaciares
3. Chile's torres des paines (which we didn't get to see because it was low season and no buses we available the day we wanted to go!)

Extra perks we found----------
The wonderful people we met at this stop, the fiery sun rises, the fresh air in our lungs on a run by the lake, the smell of autumn leaves drying on the floor, a late night reggae show, and a few fits of laughter!

Argentine time

I mean, what’s the hurry?!

Hey, I will be the first to admit- nothing about my life’s time frame is ever in a hurry.  I hate being "time stressed" in my daily activities.  I live a playful life of an adult child- wondering around watching things as they sparkle.  I truly appreciate slow, graceful, and intentional movements.  Yet, I find myself closing my eyes and seeking peaceful mantras in a few separate public places her in Argentina.

#1. The Grocery Store

            I have done it.  At age 15, (when I could only legally work three 3-hour shifts at Knowlans, the neighborhood’s local grocery store) I was the check out girl.  I had to memorized the PLU #s to vegetables I had never seen before, I remember holding up produce to the customs with a questioned look on my face.  “Ginger root” and “kale” did not frequent the Belisle's fruit and veggie basket when I was growing up.  I have deep deep empathy for each and every grocery market cashier I encounter.  I remember the flourecent lights shining above and being outfitted in my "Team Player" green uniform t-shirt.  The hours after people finished work and were about to prepare dinner were the busiest, and there I was, trying to decide if this vegetable in the thin baggie was a leek.  I would glance at the growing line of full carts and baskets- guess who every one is looking at... the girl with the leek and the next 20 minutes of their destiny in her hands. 
 In BsAs, a city I feel I am running to keep up with, I have witnessed the s.l.o.w.e.s.t. movement in humans since watching a child take it’s first step- but this ain’t cute folks.

Breath in peace, exhale love Brit! 

The clerks slump themselves on tall stools with slouched shoulders and a mundane, sad face.  I guess I would be sad too if I had to wear the corny outfit with matching visor.  The cash register itself seems to encourage this speed, needing moments to think in between customers and purchases.  The patrons must not mind the wait either, the line is 15 people deep and I watch each person listen to their total before they begin to reach for their wallet.  Not until after they have paid do they even start to begin bagging their own items.   Bizarre, and I just keep having to remind myself that I don’t have anywhere to be- I am here to watch this exact sort of thing!  The best thing about this experience, is that the grocery stores are a chain with the name "Disco."  I mean, how fun does shopping for food sound when you give the store a name like "Disco"?!  But the cashiers don't agree.  They give you an anger/sad face and wont respond to my four year old pronunciation of "como estas?"  I watch and learn and move on (because what else do we do with life!)

#2. The Restaurant/ Café

            I would NEVER wave down a server to demand their attention towards my presence.  I know this bizz and, usually, understand it.  I find myself baffled after I seat myself at a place where they have table service, and not know if I should get up and retrieve my own menu after having a polite staring contest with all the bored looking employees.  I have learned to wait, this is how the food industry rolls here.  Yesterday, Lauren asked our server for menus and she rolled her eyes at us!  Hilarious.  You can stay as long as you like, even after only ordering something as small as a coffee.  No rush. 
It is a little refreshing to not be stared down as you enjoy your meal slowly, but it's a little weird that once your food is dropped at the table, you will have a hard time finding your server again.  Then, when you are finished, you ALWAYS have to ask for your check ("la cuenta por favor?").  No matter how long you sit, or what you order, you have to find your server and ask for the check.  There can be a line of 20 people waiting for your table, or your seat and you still have to struggle to find your server.  Once they drop your food or coffee off, they never come back.  There is no "is everything okay?" or "can I bring you anything else?" in Argentina!   Just a different experience :)  So, take your time, enjoy!

 #3.  The Hostel Front Desks

            Lauren and I are staring at the girl at the front desk while she is IMing on her computer.
We just returned from a 15 mile round trip hike to a beautiful mountainside and glacier.  Exhausted, we though we would stop by the front desk to quickly before we shower to confirm the reservation for our next hostel that we had paid for prior to the hike. 
She is just typing and giggling away.  We might be starring holes into this woman's head.  Four huge eyeballs are looking deep into the side of her dread-locked head.  I thought maybe she is mad at us or maybe Lauren's spanish didn't make sense... nope, she just wanted to finish her chat before she helped the guests.  It almost seemed like a movie, for a long few minutes  we just stood there, bodies pushing against the counter, staring at this girl... waiting.  Such weird sutomer service experiences!

On the other hand, the buses- are in a hurry.

They will start to pull away from the curb before they safely shut you in the door!  You could be one the first of three steps to reach the driver and he is already cruising to the next stop.  Hurrying up on the gas pedal in order to hurry and hit the breaks!  The taxis, are in a hurry, almost hitting pedestrians every crosswalk.  Road rage is everywhere. It's rather nuts.
Pedestrians, seem to be in a hurry.  Maybe to save time for when they are in grocery.  Tourists are in a hurry, to see everything this enormous city has to offer... I am in a hurry, to head to Pataongia with my sister!!! later :)  xoxo

Iguazu Falls

The water starts lightly spraying down from the trees a few hundred meters away.  The trees are rich green and shining with moisture, so vibrant with health and vitality- reminding me to stay hydrated!  And the noise... it is so loud.  Water pounding heavily onto itself, creating an almighty roar; Cheering for the celebration of life!  It it the sound of OM, the pure vibration of heaven on earth.  The power of such volumes of water cascading from the high cliffs is somehow both stimulating and calming, invigorating and soothing.  We have beat the crowds-  9 a.m. and the park is virtually ours :)

Following the well paved path I can feel my heart begin to lift as my eyes finally land on the majesty we are here to see.  An expansive wall that would be amazing in itself, enclosing the lush rain forest floor and lifting up towards the sky.  But this wall has unexplainable amounts of water pouring down it!  "Taller than Niagara Falls, twice as wide with 275 cascades spread in a horseshoe shape over nearly two miles of the Iguazu River, ssIguazú Falls are the result of a volcanic eruption which left yet another large crack in the earth. During the rainy season of November - March, the rate of flow of water going over the falls may reach 450,000 cubic feet (12,750 cubic m) per second." Is what one website informs me, but it does nothing to describe the grandeur of watching an average of 553 cubic feet per second thundering down 269 feet!  Simply awesome.

And to top it off- a rainbow, a double rainbow in some lights, is giving me some sort sign.  An omen reminding me of all the beauty in the world.  Again, amazed at what water and light can create, such an optical phenomenon!  It's beauty is needed in order to stay calm with the masses of people who arrive by 11:30.  I will gratefully take the two hours of peacefulness we have just received and willingly leave as the families, couples, grammas and children begin to clog the small well guarded walk ways.  There is a 7km jungle trail that we can hike to a waterfall where the lesser able will not travel... so we head this way.

The jungle...  that which scares me the most.  Drop me off on a mountain top and I will survive for a bit, leave me in NYC and I could get by for a short period of time.  Middle of the ocean, I would swim until I couldn't, but  if you walked me to a jungle and let go of my hand... I would die.  Probably death by heart attack, pure panic.  I would just give up and freak out all at the same time!  So many foreign flora and fauna, SO MANY SNAKES, such a dark and dense place.  Fortunately, I felt mildly comfortable walking down a well used trail, but anything more than that- no way.  We had fun, hiking and talking.  It felt good to move the body after the 15 hour bus ride.  We hiked ourselves to the waterfall and Lauren was brave enough to jump in and swim in the natural pool!  It was beautiful and a day I will never forget :)  We strolled back to the park, hopped on a bus and headed home.  Laughing and full of energy- because I am pretty sure those are the gifts beauty and nature give you.

and then it starts to grow on me...

The noise, the filth, the chaos, the traffic, the speed of the movements, the impersonal- ness of life… the dog poop covering the sidewalks, the inhaling of everyone else’s cigarettes, the repulsive smells, the litter, the men’s oogeling eyes and repulsing whistles…

After a few days here I stop fighting for my space, because I am not going to find much room here.  I guess this is why buildings start as deep under the earth as vine roots reach and rise tall above any trees, lifting up.  Seeking space where the world allows you to grow.

Running in the early morning light is said to cure all struggles.  It's as if rising with the sun makes the world seem more promising, amazing what warmth and light can do.   I withheld the morning croissant and coffee session in order to remind myself of my deeper appreciation for discipline!  It feels right- waking up and putting a sports bra and running shoes on.  I take off...

Today, I saw BsAs in a brighter light.  First, when you are running, everyone moves out of YOUR way on the sidewalks!  (In the past few days I did learn that keeping your eyes averted and pretending as if you don’t see the on-coming human, they will move a little too.  But when you are running- they completely move.  Maybe because I look like a freak- all blond haired and jogging through the streets of downtown…) I keep my eyes on the ground in front of me regardless of who is moving for who because you need to be on major dog poop watch.  Today I see that in the early morning you can catch many dog walkers, men holding a ball of 5-12 leashes with well-behaved dogs of all size and styles leading his stride.  It is awesome to see and I will get a photo before I leave.  Witnessing this, and all the poop doesn’t seem so bad. 

Originally, the towering colonial facades of apartments and shops felt like a fence, pinning me in to a playground of consumption.  Now, as a voyeur, I can appreciate their unique beauty.  The disheveled sidewalks that make this city look a bit unkempt, but the trees planted every few meters are a great effort and seem to be breadcrumbs on the trail to BsAs’ enormous plots of green right in the middle of the city- proving everyone’s need to connect with some nature.  This is where I am heading- to the green.  The first park I hit from the hostel holds this enromous piece of public art called Floralis Generica.  It is a giant aluminum flower that blooms at dawm and closes at dusk.  Standing 75 feet tall and 105 feet wide, weighing 18 tons- it's real cool.  I have no idea why I am drawn to this, maybe the idea of taking something naturally beautiful and reconstructing it to a gross size with an unnatural material... but it still has life, as the sun rotates it changes every few minutes in the different light.

A few sun salutations, smiling because what else can you do?!  Then I turn back around, driven by the desire for coffee :)  The kiddos are heading to school, wearing uniform smocks and pulling their backpacks on wheels behind them. This is the only world they know, and they laugh their way through it. And nothing is more precious than children’s laughter! 

Maybe it’s the run, the endorphins moving through my brain and the blood pushing through my veins and heart.  Maybe it’s the morning, the day is full of potential and the sun has just begun to warm this side of the earth.  Maybe it is my attitude, finding light and space in a new place sometimes just takes some time and awareness.  Whatever it is, BsAs is starting to grow on me.  I can now understand that the man driving the car that almost hit the little boy crossing the street, once was that little boy.  We are creations of our environment, but we are powerful creatures who can control our perspective on that environment.  It’s all pretty amazing. 

got to be a BA to handle BsAs

Bumper bowling myself down Avenida Santa Fe, I am sure I look like a bewildered, lost child.  Tattered hair, jersey dress and all.  My face quickly moves from pleasantly smiling at every single human and animal I cross paths with to a slightly open mouth defeated look with the angry-brow-wrinkle in full effect.  The first days here have been exhausting.
The first major objective= shopping.  We arrive on a Thursday, perfect timing as the weekend markets start to unfold.  Friday we see Florida Ave's pure chaos with hippies set up in the middle of the walking-only street, selling random braided necklaces etc as they sip their matte gourds and begin to dream of the cheap wine buzz they will acquire if they hawk a few more pieces of merchandise.  Followed by, La Boca street fair which is in a poorer neighborhood, but has some respectful art, fantastic music and tango dancers to match- a very colorful treat!
Saturday is the fun Palermo market.  Tables are set up on top of one another, and the bars hold vendors in order for everyone to fit.  The racks of clothing are almost impossible to look at because they are bursting with mediocre merchandise.
Sunday is the Recoleta and SanTelmo fairs...
and then Monday Alex steers us to Palermo Soho, for what I understand to be the place where up and coming designers have their own boutiques.  I have never felt more foreign.  Large rooms with few racks holding very minimal amounts of clothes, that are somehow known to be very important at this very moment.
To be honest, I did not where I was at much longer than the ride to each place, be it bu or taxi or supte (subway).  Alex was the captain of this shopping ship!  Which I am thankful for, or I would have walked the plank only hours into it.  I needed to see these great markets and cute shops that Buenos Aires fames its different barrios (neighborhoods) for.  Although, other than a handful of cheap earrings, I came out pretty empty handed with only a little inspiration on the creative palette.  The markets sold a variety of things, mostly, in my opinion, different versions of crap.  There definitely were some cute shoes, clothes, jewelries, purses, etc... but also some weird figurines, bizarre prints, touristy matte gourds, and crazy apparel.

I was not sad on Tuesday when I hung up the shopping bag, so to speak.  Instead, I went to my first yoga class in weeks and loved every moment of it!  It was a   s l o w   c l a s s.  Usually, not my favorite style, but something about being in a hectic, over stimulating, busy city, made me really enjoy the tranquility of the slow movements.  The teacher brought our attention to our "wants" vs our "needs."  This is always a good reminder, especially after hours and days worth of apparel shopping!  At the end, in Savarsana (corpse pose, where you lie on your back to take a few moments to watch and let go of those thoughts that move through you fast mind) I watched the dust fall in the afternoon light... all the particles gracefully wondering in ever which way.  They were basking in the sun and being pushed around by the wind, light enough to dance on the air!  The class reminded me of what I value.  It reminded me of the universal truths I continue to try to learn.  To be simple and delicate, to move slowly with intention and grace.  To challenge myself with turning my easy life/ world upside- down... to breath during more complicated and less delightful times.

The city is fast.  It is moving, pulsing, alive.  So many people, all of them knowing- that their life is a little more important then mine.  Its hard to get a smile out of anyone.  I have completely stopped trying.  I can carry a heavy backpack, I can hold a strange yoga pose, I can run several miles in the dry heat, or handle a wind storm at some fantastically high elevation.  It can snow on me for hours and the worst customer can make me feel like shit...  I am a BadAss in the wide open spaces I find comfort in (I actually flourish in them!)  But here, I do not belong.  Pushing, dodging, weaving, honking, hawking, shaking, begging... I know, I do not belong in a city.  I need a higher dirt to concrete ratio!  I LOVE walking and wondering, but I get "stressed out!" when people are headed right for me at a fast pace, demanding me to move out of their way.  I am in check here.  I feel defeated and worked after only a few hours on the streets.  I feel exhausted and less than alive.  It is hard and I feel too soft.  I need some heeled boots, hair extensions, and some cigarettes!
Give me some prayers friends.
I am happy to be with my sister.  She can handle this all better than I can!  Maybe she will share some tips with me.  Until another few days... chao. adios. hasta luega! please dont judge my spelling! xo