A bit of India

I imagine that your thoughts of my experience in India are similar to what my thoughts where a matter of weeks ago. INDIA- fear, anxiety, loneliness, filthy, dangerous, busy, strange, and struggle to name a few words that initially came to my mind when anticipating this adventure.

On the contrary, I am living a very comfortable life. I walk out of my room and down the stairs to write this on a high speed computer, waiting for a smoothie (made of curd, banana, and chocolate) to be delivered. Tonight is the first night that I am washing my clothes. Although many people here have to wash their clothes in a bucket with soap, Anu and Ganesh have a washing machine (and a woman who is in charge of it.) I put my clothes in a bag outside my room and they are clean in the morning. Others also have to use a bucket to wash, but I am living the lux and have a shower at my disposal.

Today, I woke up before the sun, an hour before my 6 a.m. led practice (classes are led Friday and Sunday.) The lights were still out, temporary black outs occur about twice a day here. Usually early morning and between 7-9 p.m.
After practice, I skipped the coconut stand and walked across the street from the shala for breakfast. A few friends happened to be there too, so I had great company as I enjoyed a bowl of fresh tropical fruits, a delicious warm dosa (wheatless pancake) and a bold cup of coffee- all totalled $3.
After breakfast I returned to the shala for my month long Sutra class. Ashtanga Yoga, being much more than merely a series of poses, is a sacred science of life. The Sutras is a practical handbook (written two thousand years ago after being handed down orally for thousands of years prior.) The book educates the readers on how to elevate ourselves, broaden our attitudes, reduce our selfishness, and make us masters over our own body, senses, and mind. This book is pretty much rocking my philosophical world right now : )
After Sutras class, a friend from the class and I walked to the supermarket, approximately one mile away.

Here is where I see a bit of India.
We walk in the street because there are only side walks on a few of the streets. The boulevard we walk parallel to is depressing; broken pavement littered by garbage. The grasses are short and patched with dirt, possibly because all the goats and cows that roam the streets. The pollution is noticeable and disturbing. There is so much exhaust coughing out of the back end of all the rickshaws and motorcycles that pass much too close to the pedestrians. Often, piles of leaves and garbage are burning as you walk down the street. Animal feces is in the street and male natives have no problem peeing in any field or on any wall around town.
Houses are all well guarded. Tall cement walls surround the cement homes, and a metal gate 6' high is the entrance. In the front of each domain I noticed a different hand drawn white chalk symbol. Upon asking I learned that the woman of each household must wake up before her husband in order to sweep out the front entry. (I have seen the broom that they use and I wonder what they would think if they saw what we use in the states .) Once she has swept and mopped the driveway, she draws this geometric symbol which I have been told means "welcome." I find this particularly odd since the women who must draw this each morning are less than welcoming with their gazes as I meet their eyes on the street. They are dressed in beautiful bright traditional saris, covering from their neck down. Long dark hair, rich brown skin, and a bindi in between every pair of dark eyes. They look beautiful and mysterious to me. The men wear anything from jeans and a t-shirt to a towel wrapped around their waist (I learned what this was called and forgot...)

The streets are lush with trees and behind the cement fences are gardens and potted plants, but through my eyes the trash and debris takes away all the beauty of nature. I enjoy walking around, but some days I swear I won't do it again. The harassment, the pollution, and the near misses by motorized vehicles is just too much sometimes. I return to my little safety net in Gokulam, the few blocks I have considered my neighborhood.

Most often I eat around the neighborhood, but there are a few lunch spots half a mile away or so that are fabulous! At first I went in to restaurants by myself and just asked what I should eat... I have never been so open to eating what ever is suggested to me. I wouldn't know a single word on the menu, but everything I have eaten thus far has been delightful! I was so worried about getting sick, but everyone here seems to know where westerners can eat. My new friend has taken me to restaurants I would have never walked into by myself! He has been here for five months so when we eat food he explains what everything is and how it is prepared. He is fantastic to have around : )
Water can be dangerous here. It must be filtered if it comes out of the facet and can't even be used to brush the teeth. My friend took me to a place for dinner that had water (from washing) on the plates and I swore I was doomed! That night was the first time I put 15 drops of grapefruit seed extract oil, a natural antibiotic, in my water. I drank this down with my nightly handful of pills- (malaria meds, pro biotic, multi-vitamin ect.) Overall this place is much safer than I ever could have dreamed. I don't doubt that I may get a little sick here, sanitation has a different definition, but I have a tough stomach and hopeful intentions of wellness!
Alright this is long enough, and now I am just rambling... I will write again.
Love you all, know that I am happy and well!

I am in Mysore, India!

I have moved in and feel settled at Anu and Ganesh's. They are the most friendly people that I have ever met. Anu is a fabulous cook and runs a very popular cafe which serves buffet-style lunches and dinners in a hut on the balcony (three large tables about a foot off the floor and tons of pillows to sit on and against.) Ganesh, her husband who arranged my airport taxi, runs the internet biz out of their garage. Six computers fully equipped with high speed internet and vid chat. Seems like everyone I have met visits Anu's and Ganesh at least once a day, and it's probably not only to see me.

I live in the one room they rent, which is also on the balcony but is not a hut. It is a well lit spacious room with a clean bathroom. I have a bed, a desk, and a closet. The room has the linoleum floor and fluorescent light look going for it. It definitely has a simplicity theme, with a dash of third world added to it. The girl living there before me left because of a snake under the bed (just kidding- she was homesick) and she happened to leave the day after I arrived! Thanking lucky stars once again.
I have been here five days now... wake up around seven and roll right onto the yoga mat. Get the blood circulating. The past three days I have practiced with Sharath at the shala. My practice time is 8:30 a.m, which actually means 8:15. Everyone here has explained to me that the shala is on it's own time zone. okay. I have the latest available practice because I just arrived. The longer you are here, the earlier you practice. My friend Thomas has been here five months and starts at 4:30 a.m.- no thank you...
I head toward the shala around 8:13 (shala time.) The walk takes two . Today I counted four bicyclers, eight motorcycles, seven rickshaws, three cars, four scowling Indian woman, one beggar (with a monkey) and three yoga students. I cross one relatively mild intersection. Here, an intersection is like combining the games "Red Rover, Red Rover" and "Dodgeball" - except a little less fun.
I take my left turn and the shala is at the corner. Across from its gate is "the coconut stand" where two Indian men have a mini-truck with the back end FULL of coconuts. One man is in charge of the straws and the money (10 rupees, approx $.20) I do wish that the hand that takes the money was not the same hand that put the straw in the coconut, but the other man is busy with the machete so I understand their thought process here. Eight whacks to the coconut and there is a golf ball size hole and juice slipping over the sides of it! The juice is so refreshing and replenishes all the sweat you just lost in yoga practice.

Oh right- the practice! So the first day I was scared to death. Actually I still get a little nervous upon entering the waiting room. Mysore Style Yoga is a "not led" yoga practice. This means no teacher is verbally guiding you into the series of poses, there is a specific series you do every day. If you can not do one of the postures in the series, then you are stopped and cannot continue until you have accomplished this pose. I am a beginner, therefore, I do the Primary Series. Next comes Intermediate (with years and years of practicing the Primary Series,) then the Advanced Series, and after the Advanced Series I think you can actually fly.

So you drop your flip flops at the stairs and enter the waiting room. It is a warm room (bodies have been heating it up for four hours now.) The doors to the practice room are open, and about 8(ish) people are circled around the practice doors... waiting... and watching. The first day, as I looked at everyone in a different pose of whichever of the series they are practicing, I forgot the whole series for a moment. I hear "NEXT PERSON" in a strong Indian accent from the practice room. Some girl hops in; People ask "what's your time?" so that no one is cutting the line. "ONE MORE" is his alternative summoning shout. There is a lot of "you? me? you?" looks around the waiting room.

When I enter the room I can't even find an open spot to lay my mat. It feels like I am swimming through a sea of flowing bodies. Sharath points to my spot, and I now begin! To my left- down dog, to my right- a headstand, in front of me- a bridge pose, and behind- one leg up in the air. I inhale to begin, Ujjayi breath- a victorious breath that does amazing things for the body and weirdly sounds like Darth Vader. The breath is all you hear in the room, and it feels amazing!

I get in to my head, silently chant the opening prayer, and begin my practice. I zone in. Today was my best practice yet. I was adjusted into a bind that I had never reached before, so I was given a new pose to work on. I felt light yet strong through all the poses. As I exit the practice room, I bow to Sharath in thanks. I cannot believe I am here. I am in Mysore, India doing Ashtanga yoga with Sharath, grandson of Pattabhi Jois, in his shala! It feels like a first kiss, heart pattering and eyes sparkling- I go to get my coconut.

If you are ready to believe the unbelievables, this is the land.

I meet Sateesh only because I move seats, he talks to me about his culture's tradition. He had a friendly face and spoke proudly of his arranged marriage, belief in only Ayruvedic medicine, truths behind horoscopes, and the Hindu belief system. He excited and inspired me to learn more about his country. The flight was 3.5 hours over the Bay of Bangal. He was the one to tell me, "If you are ready to believe the unbelievables, this is the land!"
Walking off the plane I was pleased to feel the cool temperature of the night. I find my small duffel bag and barely have time to grab it as Indians are pushing me to get to their own bags. I slowly head to the exit. Behind a small gate are hundreds of people waiting to pick up new arrivals. Although in the plane there were a few non-Indians, here it is impossible to spot another white face. I am not looking for a white face, I am now looking for my name. Dozens of men are pushing against the gate holding 11.5 x 13 inch sheets of paper with names written on them. Heat flushes through my face for how close I have to get to read some of the signs. My name is typed in big bold letters and I exhale all worries!
Yogesh does not speak much English, or doesn't want to talk. When I ask if we can make a stop for water he knows enough to say, "there is none on the way." I am so thirsty (damn those airline peanuts and glasses of wine at Teresa's!) I try to sleep this issue away... the ride flashed me back to a memory of my family at Disney Land going on the Indian Jones ride over and over again. The bumps and quick turns seem less amusing now, there will be no sleeping on this ride. The honking on the horn seems to be the trend here in India, every time two cars passed on this packed road two horns would sound. Needless to say, lots of honking.
Besides one quick stop where Yanesh went "to go get a cup of milk"... at what looked like some sort of lemonade stand filled with adults at 2 a.m I felt safe. I stayed in the taxi during this stop and covered my glow in the dark hair as people drifted near the car.
We arrived in Mysore around 3 a.m, and came to a quick stop in the middle of a desolate street. Yogesh hands me the keys and starts to get back in the cab. I panic inside! "I don't know where to go." I tell him and he points to a cattle gate in front of what looks like a house. I walk to the gate and struggle for awhile to open it, praying he doesn't leave until I can figure it out. Finally I get the gate open and walk up the drive way not knowing what the hell I am supposed to do. I walk around and the taxi pulls off. I am in India, alone and outside some house and can't find a door- HOLY SHIT!
After what seems like five minutes (I am sure the count on a clock would have been 60 seconds), I find a door and after fumbling with the keys on the chain I find the one which opens the door. I am in and there is a dog and a note, both very friendly! I find my room and won't even brush my teeth because I am so scared of the bathroom. I want to sleep but I also fear the cleanliness of the sheets. I am so glad I brought my own! I am paying $30 a night to stay at this spot, and all I can do is fear the room I am renting for $140 for the month. I lay my sheet on the bed and use my towel as my pillow. Fully dressed I fall in and out of a bizarre sleep.
The next morning I awake to the sounds of breakfast being made outside my window. "Alia's Om Cafe and Guesthouse" has begun serving breakfast. Five Indian men are in the kitchen, I ask for the two owners but they are not here yet. I decide to take a walk.
I exit the dreaded gate with minimal trouble. I walk down the street and smile as I see two cows in the middle of the road and a few goats eating grass around a coconut stand. I turn, fearing that at any moment I will see one of those guys playing a flute with a cobra in a basket. Richshaws blazing by me. Bikes everywhere, and ten motorcycles to every one car. Horn festival might as well of been going on... for a few moments I could not tell if cars had a particular side of the road they were legally bound to. Two kids asked if I had a country coin for them. I have never felt so aware of my skin and hair color, I stood out real bad. Where are all the yogis who have come to study? When I returned to Alia's I found them, and the owner. Everyone was very friendly.
More stories to come, no pictures yet.

Loy Krathong Day!

As we pulled out on to the jungle road, I want to cry. Overstimulated and hypersensitive for sure. Our amazing evening was ending and I was exhausted. I am so thankful for my new friends here, they certainly showed me a magical night!

Before today Loy Krathong Day was explained to me as "flowers with lanterns on banana leaves in river." This morning I was given my first Krathong from Khun Iad (nanny). It was homemade and beautiful. I see that the lantern was actually a candle which seemed like a much better idea than a lantern...

The day was fabulous. I hung out at home- had a great yoga session, was accepted into a teacher training program that I applied for (here in Thailand for the month of Feb.), and confirmed my logistics for India. Khun Oye (nanny's niece) called to say she would pick me up at 4pm, so I was ready for her at 3 and expected her to show up anytime before 6. Khun Oye arrives on time and is casually dressed. To see my friend who usually resembles a cupcake in jeans gave me a little sigh of relief for both the evening plans and my clothing choice of gauchos (sp?)

So we get in the car and our mountain of a language barrier is becoming more traversable (were aren't climbing yet!) She has taken some English in the past so we teach each other what we can and laugh through most of it. We drive for awhile, heading to "ban Khun Pay." Khun Pays house is not only where she and her family live, but also their coffee shop. They ask me if I want any coffee drink (in sign language). I look at the options and say "cappuccino."

"Yen or Lawn?" Cold or hot.

"Yen."

From a previous experience I had with a Thai interpretation of a mocha, I was anticipating some sort of dirty grounds meet powder milk collaboration. I am sitting on the couch with the little kids (where everyone was initially sitting but one by one they moved in the middle of different conversations, and I wasn't conversing so I just stayed...) as he brings me this drink. This cappuccino put Starbucks to shame.

Oh and when I say "everyone" I am referring to this little community I had met at the wedding two nights before. The names remind me of a tell-a-tubby episode; (I will leave out the Khun which just goes in front of everyone's name, male or female) Oye, Ot, O, Oot, Net, Mam, Meow, Pay, Doon, and you gotta giggle at Pee and Thong.

I see that we went there in order to pick up Khun O, who is definitely Khun Oye's boyfriend but her aunt does not approve because he drives a motorcycle so they pretend like they are not together when I am around. O (he says "no Khun for him") is awesome.

He drives us to our destination, about 1.5 hours away. We talk a little and laugh the whole way there. From what I understand we are going to meet a few of O's friends to go out to eat. I wonder when we are going to put our Krathongs in the water but I don't ask.

Once off the freeway we take turns until we are on a dirt road in the jungle and pull up to a beautiful little resort on the river. O's friends that I meet are married and their family owns the resort. When we sit down we are served the most amazing dinner. The tom yum gong (curry soup with shrimp) and ga lam pee (garlic cabbage dish I am very found of) were out of this world. My favorite moment of dinner was when they asked "do you like fish" I answered "sure" and a entire fish (fried) is placed on the table. I thought to myself "well there is one way to do it!"

During dinner I see dozens of Krathongs of all sizes floating down the river. There is a duo playing some tunes and lots of parties on the resort's deck.

After dinner they put us in this long wooden boat on the river. Our driver turns on the oversized motor (which I think is a car motor) and we put down the canal. As we get closer to where all the action is- FIREWORKS begin to bust into the sky, changing the color of the night and are reflected in the dark water. It is ridiculous how perfect life seemed at this moment! We put the boat down a canal that has many sets of cement steps leading to the active streets above. We "dock" and climb up the stairs to find a full blown "night market!" Food and trinkets being sold on every square inch of the street. Women making Krathongs right in front of you, seafood being cooked in stands and boats, motorcycles carrying families of four slowly traveling in the street.

O buys a "floating lantern" which we light and release into the air. As I look up, I think of everyone in the whole world sharing the same sky. I think of all of you!

The excited energy of every one around is highly contagious, this is one of the most fun events I have seen. A great holiday, I would compare to New Years, but without the over-dressed and the over-served. Magic is the only word I can think of as I sit in the boat as we return to the resort. And, as if we ordered it, more fireworks appeared in the sky as we drift past a carnival of some sort in an open area of the river.

It is now when we light our Krathongs and place them in the river. I do not know if we are supposed to pray or make a wish when we release our little beautiful works of art, but I decided to do both- just in case.

Evolving as a taxi rider.

Hot pink taxis preface most of my adventures in the city of Bangkok.

I always enter with the formality of "swaa dii- ka" and then continue with my standard Thai baby-babble trying to explain where I would like to go. The taxi's are always clean and smell fresh. The AC is usually pumping, and the drivers often drive as if your destination is the ER. Some taxis keep the decor simple, maybe just a Buddha and some ribbon hanging from the rear view mirror. I have included a photo as an example of how some taxis have a combination of toys-r-us meets McDonald's happy meal toys on their dash board! (The reason there is no driver in the photo?... we stopped for gas. Huh, okay. Meter is running and we are filing homeboy's tank! He knows I'm not about to complain.)

Other taxis have flower pillows or neon lights lining the back window. One taxi I took the other day had a series of "No" stickers, with pictures crossed out with big red X's. The no-smoking sticker was next to a no-farting sticker, and the third sticker I decoded to no grabbing boobs!

Great rules for all vehicles, to say the least.

My first taxi I took by myself I hopped in the car and confidently said, "Phuket."(pronounce poo-ket.)

The man actually put the car in park to get a good look at my face.

What I meant to say was "Pak kret" which is the area in which I live, not Phuket, Thailand's largest Island which is a very popular tourist attraction and a 14 hour drive from Bangkok.

We figured it out. We always do.

I take taxis to a handful of places and rarely does a driver take the same route as the previous ride. At first I had a victims outlook, assuming each driver was trying to take this girl from the US on a ride for her money. If we hit traffic (which is a norm on every route at any time a day,) I would get restless with distrust. If I don't recognize the route (like I should?!?) I furrow my face in a bit of anxiety. I always judged my drivers on the volume of his music, intensity of his AC, and the weight of his foot... unfair, I know.

So what do I stress about? A $7 instead of $6 20+ minute taxi ride to downtown? Really?

Be in the breath Brit!!!

Today was my first glimpse on reaching nirvana in my taxi rides. The driver turned down Soi Somakee, a road I had known as the epitome of stop-and-go traffic. The highway was the comfortable route I had expected. Soi Samakee is a popular side street often packed with cars, motorcycles, dogs, bikers, pedestrians, and once I saw a cow being pulled on a rope. I was immediately suspicious that this guy was bad news. Then he turns down a road I have not seen yet. When the paved road shifts into dirt I start to wonder if I will ever see my family again! Then, my drifting mind focuses on what we are driving by...

A gorgeous glittering temple behind gates. It is ornately decorated, such effort and detail in this huge structure! This Wat (temple) held the standard expectations of amazing architecture and sacred energy.

After we pass it, I realized, that I must begin to appreciate what ever I am seeing, not wishing I was seeing something familiar and comforting (duh, right?) We continue down this "path" that I initially thought was my end and now, I accept as my beginning. Pretty deep...

I can't even remember enough to describe what was in between acres of swamp land that followed this house of god. Communities suffering through extreme poverty. Make-shift trailers where utilities are a luxury. So intense that I have no words as of yet... I will go back and take photos.

Suddenly, we turned off this dirt road and I knew exactly where we were! It had been a short cut and we skipped a highway toll. I squealed, "Kor poon-ka!" Thank you. Thank you for the moment of realization, the view of a life I have never known, a new secret of the road, I thank you!

And now, with or without Bob the Builder along for the ride, I will honor the life of the taxi driver and appreciate the views out of this moving window. (Namaste!)

Dinner on the River

The taxi wasn't lost, we just could not find the restaurant. We, again, handed the cell phone over to him. We were in front of this amazing gold painted temple on some nondescript road barely wide enough for two cars. We make a U-turn and veer down a slightly sloped driveway of a road to stop at the river. It is raining and we are not jumping out of the taxi too quick.

"walk, walk, walk" says the taxi driver as he laughs with a bit of insanity seeping through. He is pointing to a shack/ house on the other side of a giant pool of murky river water. We get out to find a toothless woman handing off an umbrella to us. Rain falling on my head is the least of my worries as I see that the only way to the restaurant is a path of sandbags piled on top of each other. It looked similar to when people put those flat round stones in their grass to lead up to the entrance of their house, except with sandbags and in an extremely polluted river. It was awesome! The restaurant was quaint, amazing ambiance. We had the place to ourselves.

It was the owner's house, and the house could not have been any closer to the river without being a boat. The food was good, amazing fried rice with shrimp, and the beer was cold.

We sat and laughed as we watched the sun set as the rain let up. I was so excited to go over those sandbags again! I did not expect to see the next door neighbor outside taking his bath when we left, but I am getting more used to seeing things I would not expect.

(Like the elephant in the middle of the road on the way to dinner. A tiny little Asian Elephant, looking just as out of place as I had felt in chinatown the day before)

Earlier that day was spent at the Chatuchak Market, a weekend market that is more packed with people and booths than the state fair. Narrow walkways of chaos selling any random thing you can think of; from nice wood furniture and fine art, to "cotton" socks and brightly colored scarves, to coconut shakes and snakes. Teresa, Gabriella , and I only lasted a few hours (non of us having that shopping gene) and by mid-day, the heat was only magnified with the crowds. I left with a few things I thought I could use in India, 2 pair of lightweight "fishermen pants" and a notebook. I will return to Chatuchak again!

I have never drank a gin and tonic so fast

Khun Oy (Khun Iad's neice) and Khun Tuah said they would pick me up at 6 pm for dinner. I am out of the shower around 2 and the phone rings. "I pick you at 3." okay, I can get ready in an hour no problem. I make myself a cocktail. I little too early, but girls gotta take the edge off!

They arrive twenty minutes later, two tiny Thai girls dressed in business-like attire... I toss some make up on and the rest of my drink down my throat and off we go! We stumble through greetings and first words, sounding like two year olds I imagine. They ask what I would like to do. I don't know, and I actually don't care, "anything." So they talk and agree on- what does every girl love to do?... "Chawp mai ka Shopping?!" How do I say no? "Chawp-ka!" And off we go, to the one place in downtown have already been!

Whatever, I can shop again. I love doing something out of the compound and it's fun to try to talk to these girls. Khun Tuay can speak a bit of English. We go get a snack and shop around then Khun Tuay has to go. We drive her to her tiny downtown condo and stay for awhile watching the news and talking about Barack, their King, work, and families and then we leave. At this point we have already had a three hour date so I imagined it was time to drop this old bag off, but we were going now to meet Khun Tip for dinner. This ride to dinner was the most entertaining.

Khun Oy speaks as much English as I do Thai. We are driving in an extremely over air conditioned car which is totally tricked out with Hello Kitty gear and listening to horrible American pop song remixes (I imagine for my sake.) So we are trying to talk, well just trying to teach each other words so I say, "sii...left, kwaa... right" "sii... left, kwaa... light" "right" "light" "rrrrright" "llllight".... okay so I start showing her lights and say "light" and with my hand I show "right." Then I try another word with the "R" in it. "Right" like "rice." "Lice"

Now I am laughing and so she is laughing (lots of laughing on this date, usually one was laughing because something was fun and the other was laughing because what the hell else are you going to do with yourself!)

"R's" are hard so I decided no more "R's" tonight! I guess I should have known that when the English speaking Tuah said "do you like ealaley" and was talking about Hilary Clinton! She brought it on herself though when she said "Thai baht, US dollars, India...?" "Rupies." "Ahhh, luupies." I was dying inside!

Sometimes I thought I was learning the Thai word for something... "singer song... ka wa kee" I would repeat "ka wa kee several times to try to remember it for later before I realized that she was trying to say karaoke and not actually teach me a Thai word!

Dinner with Khun Tip was excellent. The octopus tasted like rubber bands in my mouth but I took it down! We all had a Kamkazie with dinner and once I itched my eye Khun Oy says, "you sleepy, too much drink!" Ahhh... how do I tell this 4' 10" 80 pounder that rarely drinks that a kamakazie is not going to faze this beast of an American? "no, I am okay"

Khun Tip could speak a little English so she would translate. Now I am roped in to a series of engagements. "Chawp mai ka dancing at disco tec?" oh god please no "maybe."

I think I am going to a few traditional ceremonies this week too "we call to confirm" they tell me. I am nervous about my casual cotton dresses for these events but we will see...

Oh. and the earrings Khun Tuah gave me as souvenir! Heavy as hell and sparkle like a disco ball! Over all, 7 hours of pure entertainment. These girls were so nice to take me out, and they were so cute- grabbing on to me at the mall and telling me to always ask for a discount, which I already forgot how to say! We all liked each other very much and I made my first friends!

what a night!

As Americans line up to make history, I write...

The weekend has now come and gone. I didn't even realize it was Halloween until my taxi driver said, "Halloween Day!" Assuming he may know a little English, I tried to say a few more easy words to him in hopes to learn some Thai, but I honestly think "Halloween Day" are the only two words in English he knows.

No judgment here... at this point all I had down in Thai was "good morning" and "thank you." The only special things about my "Halloween Day!" was the $4 pedicure (fully including sparkle flowers on big toes) and the amazing fresh spring rolls Khun Iad made for lunch and dinner! She is an amazing authentic chef.

Saturday and Sunday I went to a cool yoga conference. Took four classes each day, all with totally different focuses. The first day Teresa and I went together. Started with the Primary Series (which is what I will go and study in India), next Kundalini Yoga, then Kryoga (personal favorite of the whole day), and finished with a meditation class that was so boring and watered down that we walked out!

Karma has it that I left my pass for the conference in the class I walked out of and had a bugger of a time trying to get into the conference the next day! Took a taxi there and back- all by myself! The taxis are so fun here, all beautiful colors- florescent pinks, greens, oranges and yellows. The morning driver had his own laws of the road, he was creative. All the lanes were going too slow, so he just drove on the shoulder. Makes sense I guess, and by "too slow" I mean too slow for his preference. He liked to go fast too, I am not sure what 120 km/h equates to in mph but I think it was pretty speedy.

So I made it to the conference and had to pull the "I lost my pass and I don't speak thai" card. They wanted to charge me $9 (300 baht) but I kind of just said "no" and after awhile they kind of just said "okay." So that was cool...

Saturday's classes were Pranayama (breathing), Iynegar (sp?), Chakras- this class rocked. I was actually bummed when the teacher mentioned his wife because I was sure we would end up together forever! Finished the day with some Lion pose sequence which was pretty cool too. All in all the conference was split nicely between review and new info! Didn't make any friends though :(

Oh here's a story. So this conference had tea time between each class (so cute) and a huge spread for lunch. The first day I was like "Teresa you have got to try this delicious pasta salad thing." Yeah right, like there is fricking pasta salad here! And she responds while I am mid chew "Oh, I didn't get that because I thought it was intestines." I swallowed quickly.

I was like, "don't talk to me."

So I have been playing around with the world of vegetarianism...

Monday, Teresa took Gabriella to the doctor downtown and I tagged along. We had lunch at this super trendy loft where I had the best Pad Thai I have ever had and a fantastic coconut shake. After finding a map of the city for me, I waved them goodbye and I wandered the streets for a few hours.

I was in the "shopping center" of town. For those of you who know me at all, I tried very hard to like shopping that day. Shopping is boring in every country for this girl. Big name stores: Valentino, Gucci, Louis Vutton, Versace littered these malls.

I left all the malls, and hit the streets to take some photos (which I hope to put on here with ease some day soon.) When it started to rain (rain season is just slowing down but it has rained a bit almost every day) I hopped on the BTS sky train, took it North to the end of the line at Mo Chit and grabbed a taxi for the rest of the way home...

I am starting to be able to say where I live to the taxi drivers now. The first time I just called the front desk of the compound my aunt lives in and handed over the phone to the driver! Yesterday when I was saying to take a left on Bangkok Blvd ("leo saii bangkok boulevard") I was corrected by the driver "boul-e-WARD." He made me say it a few times with him "boul-e-ward, boul-e-ward." Right! Add Asian accent...gotta love it!

More stories coming soon...

Now I just wait to see how these elections will go... (like we all don't know!)

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