The day starts in the dark. We woke up with packed bags and take a 20 minute taxi to the bus station. We are silent, listening to the Thai radio announcer at a volume that wouldn't have been as painful if it was coming in a bit more clearly. Static frizzles through her speech; I cross my legs into lotus pose, close my eyes and focus on my breath. I imagine that this air conditioned, clean, comfy ride would be my most easy and comfortable moments of the day.
We had been warned by many about the boarder crossing we are heading for. Everyone tries to rip you off for anything they can get. The government officials lie in order to make a $10 tip. Bus scams, tuk-tuk scams, people dragging you to the wrong window-teller or even to an "official building" for an unnecessary stamp or form to purchase. Lexie had spent the time to research specifics on all that we were up against... I imagine it was my half of the job to be the one not to let them happen.
We pay the cabbie and head to the ticket window (lexie had a single sheet of notes that gave all the details for the day- even to the exact window we should purchase our tickets at!) The $6 4-hour bus ride to the boarder was unexpectedly painless (except for the mixed c.d. they had playing... it can be another 10 years until I hear the Bodyguard song again) We slept most of the way there and were given cookies when we woke up.
At the last bus stop, our next step is to find a tuk-tuk to the boarder. We are lured by a driver who was right outside the bus door, 2 cute kids on his seat suckering us 20-something women right over! The price was what we were expecting, so we hop in. I see the sign arrowing that the boarder was straight ahead as we turn right. Another right turn and the man was bringing us into our first scam of the day... A Travel Agency! We knew this was coming and it was thrilling to say "Kho tut-ka, clap roht! Korp Khun ka." Daaammmnnn- who knows how to say "Excuse me, U-turn please." in Thai! Everyone laughs and he brings us to expected scam #2... Cambodian Consulate. After reading the websites, this was almost too easy. "No, no, no sir," and with more laughter he turns back around towards the sign that pointed us to the boarder. As he slows to drop us off, men are already trying to help us with our bags and offer us information about what they think we should do next. We grab our own backpacks, toss him his 80 Baht and walk through the market that lexie told us to NOT eat from (ahhh, no problem following that suggestion).
Our next step on the paper explains where the Departure Building is so that we can be stamped out of the country. For the first time, we get the special treatment of being foreigners and stand in the short line. No other blond hairs in sight for miles! They stamp us out and we go to our little treasure map for the next instructions. Cross the street, blue building to the right, you only have to pay $20 for a visa to Cambodia, scam #3- they will ask for 1000 Baht and tell you if you don't pay that you will have to wait. Well, I stood up for us, but when they sat us down and told us it could be 3-4 days of waiting, I was debating about how long it would take this stubborn girl to give in. They had lowered the extra charge (aka dirty tip money) to 100 Baht and I am thinking, I was a bit rude about not paying the $3 they were trying to scam off each of us... "who cares Brit? Just get to Cambodia" By the time 2/3 of us had visited the bathroom, the visas were ready! It might have been my move of taking a few pictures, or it was just the deal...
Three for three, what was coming next! I was weirdly almost having fun with this game, only because we had all the answers on our cheat sheet. The men following us was a bit annoying. All wearing dress slacks and button up shirts, laminated id cards around their necks to prove something to someone somewhere. One more building to do something in... I don't even know, maybe get stamped...
Stand in line, I get budged in front of by four people. I am such a sucker when it comes to that stuff. "Really?" Is about all I can do and I even say that under my breath! Whatever, I can see the light at the end of this tunnel and we are in Cambodia! A guy in a pink button up, brown slacks, and loafers has been following us for a bit now. He approached us at the time of Visa purchasing, I wonder if he knew we weren't going to have to wait for 3-4 days? Between buildings he talks to me. He is persistent, I continue to tell him no thank you as he continues to tell me about a free bus to a taxi station. We don't really see any other options once we are on the other side of the boarder so we take a leap of faith and get into his bus- about seven Japanese tourists and us three. He sits by us and I ask him questions about Cambodia and his life, but don't fully trust any of his answers. The bus wheels roll for ten minutes until we stop at a huge empty building with a bunch of chairs in the middle of an empty field. Great, the shade factor is at an all time high. At the front desk we argue about a price to Siem Reap with four men sitting behind a desk. They will let us pay our amount... if- we all sit in the back and let a hitch hiker sit in the front seat, if we pass one. I say, "Sir, that does not make us feel safe. Please drop us back off at the boarder." (thought you would be proud mom- I am taking care here!) I knew that we were not getting a ride back to the boarder, but after five months of bartering I have learned the ultimate threat to a sale is to walk away.
He promises that we will probably not see a hitch hiker so... we agree. As we each fork up the cash, I notice the dice game going on in the back and can only laugh- where the crap am I!? I love it. We walk to the side of the building where maybe eight Toyota Camry's are scattered. "I will take that one." I try to make things lighter since I have been nothing but a hard-ass for the last 40 minutes to the guy in pink. He explains that I do not get to pick and shows us to our ride. As if he just won "a new car" in the price is right, Vanna (our driver -and favorite part of the day- pronounced "wanna") comes running down the stairs with his hands in the air. I will add photos in later...
The road, infamous for being pothole ridden and dusty, is in the works of being paved. Vanna has a cute chubby face and gelled hair. He wears a nice button up shirt and wears a fancy watch that makes me imagine him selling them in the states somewhere. Our drive is less than four hours, with a few random stops to get gas and clean the car. It is fun, and in the end he lets Lexie sit up front. We ask him questions about his life and about Cambodia as we slowly head east towards Angkor Wat. Motorbikes figure eight around us as we pass overloaded trucks. There are many open vehicles resembling tractors, some carrying up to 8 people with their feet swaying inches above the pavement. I was impressed by Vanna's use of a blinker as we head dead on to opposing traffic with a couple of honks for good measure.
Men with nets fishing alongside the road in muddy green stagnant pools holding run off water made me okay with a no fish diet this week. Flat dusty land reaching to the horizon line, Vanna said they were rice fields, but they didn't seem to have much life in them at this time.
The paved road takes us through scattered residences. Impoverished communities with wooden houses on stilts, some concrete structures, and a few abodes jimmy rigged together with sheets of tin or palm leaves. The people are gorgeous, classic images of barefoot walkers and bike riders wearing woven sun brimming hats. Many umbrellaed stands selling fruit, fish, and water; I wonder who stops to buy things from them. This ride reminds me of India at times, everyone seems to be on a mission... a mission of survival. The weather seems exhausting enough, then the dusty environment and lack of accessibility. So thankful for the easy life I have been given!
And then he leaves! He drops us off at corner outside of town with some tuk-tuk driver that he explains is part of the taxi service. Yeah right Vanna, I thought we were getting a drink and singing Karaoke tonight. I am glad my heart wasn't set on that plan! (Oh, I did forget to mention that he had a Karaoke machine where other cars would have a rear view mirror! We asked him to sing, but he was a little too shy for that.) Anyway, anticlimactically, the tuk-tuk drivers us to the guest house we are currently staying at and we love it! He does want our business for the following three days of temple touring, but we go with the man affiliated with our hotel, which causes some heated discussion "Are you going to do me right, or are you going to do me wrong." Leah thought she heard him say something about how he better not see us with another guy, but... so far so good.
In conclusion, this place is rad. We made it safe and what a fun ride it was. Next blog- the ancient temple ruins- wowzers! love you all, thanks for sharing that experience with me!
xoxo brit
No comments:
Post a Comment