I am in Mysore, India!

I have moved in and feel settled at Anu and Ganesh's. They are the most friendly people that I have ever met. Anu is a fabulous cook and runs a very popular cafe which serves buffet-style lunches and dinners in a hut on the balcony (three large tables about a foot off the floor and tons of pillows to sit on and against.) Ganesh, her husband who arranged my airport taxi, runs the internet biz out of their garage. Six computers fully equipped with high speed internet and vid chat. Seems like everyone I have met visits Anu's and Ganesh at least once a day, and it's probably not only to see me.

I live in the one room they rent, which is also on the balcony but is not a hut. It is a well lit spacious room with a clean bathroom. I have a bed, a desk, and a closet. The room has the linoleum floor and fluorescent light look going for it. It definitely has a simplicity theme, with a dash of third world added to it. The girl living there before me left because of a snake under the bed (just kidding- she was homesick) and she happened to leave the day after I arrived! Thanking lucky stars once again.
I have been here five days now... wake up around seven and roll right onto the yoga mat. Get the blood circulating. The past three days I have practiced with Sharath at the shala. My practice time is 8:30 a.m, which actually means 8:15. Everyone here has explained to me that the shala is on it's own time zone. okay. I have the latest available practice because I just arrived. The longer you are here, the earlier you practice. My friend Thomas has been here five months and starts at 4:30 a.m.- no thank you...
I head toward the shala around 8:13 (shala time.) The walk takes two . Today I counted four bicyclers, eight motorcycles, seven rickshaws, three cars, four scowling Indian woman, one beggar (with a monkey) and three yoga students. I cross one relatively mild intersection. Here, an intersection is like combining the games "Red Rover, Red Rover" and "Dodgeball" - except a little less fun.
I take my left turn and the shala is at the corner. Across from its gate is "the coconut stand" where two Indian men have a mini-truck with the back end FULL of coconuts. One man is in charge of the straws and the money (10 rupees, approx $.20) I do wish that the hand that takes the money was not the same hand that put the straw in the coconut, but the other man is busy with the machete so I understand their thought process here. Eight whacks to the coconut and there is a golf ball size hole and juice slipping over the sides of it! The juice is so refreshing and replenishes all the sweat you just lost in yoga practice.

Oh right- the practice! So the first day I was scared to death. Actually I still get a little nervous upon entering the waiting room. Mysore Style Yoga is a "not led" yoga practice. This means no teacher is verbally guiding you into the series of poses, there is a specific series you do every day. If you can not do one of the postures in the series, then you are stopped and cannot continue until you have accomplished this pose. I am a beginner, therefore, I do the Primary Series. Next comes Intermediate (with years and years of practicing the Primary Series,) then the Advanced Series, and after the Advanced Series I think you can actually fly.

So you drop your flip flops at the stairs and enter the waiting room. It is a warm room (bodies have been heating it up for four hours now.) The doors to the practice room are open, and about 8(ish) people are circled around the practice doors... waiting... and watching. The first day, as I looked at everyone in a different pose of whichever of the series they are practicing, I forgot the whole series for a moment. I hear "NEXT PERSON" in a strong Indian accent from the practice room. Some girl hops in; People ask "what's your time?" so that no one is cutting the line. "ONE MORE" is his alternative summoning shout. There is a lot of "you? me? you?" looks around the waiting room.

When I enter the room I can't even find an open spot to lay my mat. It feels like I am swimming through a sea of flowing bodies. Sharath points to my spot, and I now begin! To my left- down dog, to my right- a headstand, in front of me- a bridge pose, and behind- one leg up in the air. I inhale to begin, Ujjayi breath- a victorious breath that does amazing things for the body and weirdly sounds like Darth Vader. The breath is all you hear in the room, and it feels amazing!

I get in to my head, silently chant the opening prayer, and begin my practice. I zone in. Today was my best practice yet. I was adjusted into a bind that I had never reached before, so I was given a new pose to work on. I felt light yet strong through all the poses. As I exit the practice room, I bow to Sharath in thanks. I cannot believe I am here. I am in Mysore, India doing Ashtanga yoga with Sharath, grandson of Pattabhi Jois, in his shala! It feels like a first kiss, heart pattering and eyes sparkling- I go to get my coconut.